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May 05, 2008

How Much Should You Spend for Wine in a Restaurant?

Trying to impress your guests with the price of the wine you order is the sure sign of a bonehead wine novice and can backfire miserably. On the other hand, you probably don't want to look like a cheapskate. One way to avoid this dilemma is to pick out a few wines from the list in the price range with which you're comfortable, then ask the sommelier to help you choose among them. This tactic should eliminate any discussion of prices.

Many sommeliers report a curious phenomenon: People refuse to buy wines that are true bargains. One buyer for a prominent restaurant put a wine on his list at $24. It didn't sell until he marked it up to $32, then it began to move briskly. Most people evidently think you have to spend at least $30 to get a decent bottle. Not true! There are bargains on most wine lists. Avoid the big blockbuster names with three-digit prices and move to a more remote section of the list, where sommeliers will generally put some of their special finds, at very reasonable prices. You won't find bargains in the Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon list; look at the Syrahs and Pinot Noirs instead. The wines of Austria, Spain, or Chile can be great values, as can the lovely cru Beaujolais from France. Look for a Cabernet from Argentina instead of a cult label from Napa. Finally, ask the sommelier for a lesser-known wine that he personally likes.

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